May 2007

“Bro, watch it!” Graham called out as he eased up on his board to pull out of the wave.

A shaggy-haired kid flipped the fringe out of his eyes. “My bad, man!” He pumped the remaining wave and cut back to paddle to the surf line. 

“You gotta pay attention out here, ya Jake,” Graham said, paddling towards him.

“My name’s not Jake,” he called back.

“It is now. You can’t just cut off the line. Don’t be a jake, man,” he said, shaking his head.

“These guys will not be as chill next time.” 

Graham sat on his board, glancing back at the older, more experienced surfers. They glared and assessed their inexperience.

The kid facing him had barely reached puberty, much like himself, with no whisper of facial hair, apart from the water-logged mop on the top of his head. 

“Come on, let’s get back in line before they decide to push us out. I’m Graham.”